Sewing-machine for producing scalloped tucks.



No. 858,161.' u I PATENTED JUNE 25(1907.

- A. H. DE v05.

szwme MAGHINB FOR PRODUCING SOALLOPBD TUGKS.

APPLICATION TILED NOV. 24,1905.

3 SHEETS-8113B! 1.

M al'fqzn in-van L'o" WM no. 858,161. I PATENTED JUNE 25,1907.

' A.H.,DE v03.

SEWING MACHINE FOR PRODUGING SGALLOPHD TUGKS;

. APPLICATION FILED nov.24,1so5.

8 SHEETS-'BHEET 2.

PATENTED JUNE 25. 1907.

A. H. DE v05. snw'me MACHINE FOR rnonucme SGALLGPED TUCKS.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 24,1905.

3 sums-sum a.

.IUNITED STATES PATENT .OFFIOE.

ALBERT HIDE VOE, OF ELIZABETH, "NEW JERSEY, AssicNOa To THESINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION F NEW JERSEY.

sEwme-mAc -uus FOR sooucme scALLoPEo'TucKs.-

nassaiei.

Specification of l'aetters Patent;

Patented June 25, 19 07.

Application'filcd. November 24, 1906. Serial No. 258,338.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, ALBERT H. D Von, a

' citizen of the United States, residin at Elizafor Producing scallpiped Tucks, of which the following is a spec cation, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

. This invention relates to an improvement in that classof sewing machines designed and fitted for producing scalloped edges of a form commercially known as shell tucking; and it has for its primary object to insure greater uniformity of action than has been practicable heretofore in such class of machines, and

to providea simple and effective construction and arrangement of parts cooperating to produce the described result.

' ment, consists in asewin The invention, in its preferred embodimachine having anyusual or suitable stitch-forming devices and a presserfoot cooperating with .the feeding n emher for holding and-advancing the workinthe production of a straight-ahead seam along its edge, combined withJa periodically-acting pusher movable transversely of the line of feed for indenting the edge of the fabric at intervalsfor the passage of the needle beyond the same, and a periodically-acting bifurcated auxiliary clamp-member for securely holding the edge of the work during the action of the pusher upon a portion inter mediate those so held. The action of the feeding mechanism is preferably interrupted during the production of one or more stitches at the time the pusher is in active operation and in the present embodiment, the fulcrum of the feed lever is dropped at intervals so that the lifting cam has an insufficient throw to lift the feed-dog into engagement with the work at such times. It will thus be observed that the feeding-111echanism and the pusher and cooperating work-clamp act upon the work alternately in successive stitchforming cycles in the production of a group of stitches; the stitch or stitches roduced while the edge of the material is ind znted by the pusher being formed without the usual advance of the wprk under the action of the feeding-mechanism in'the latter part of one stitch-forming cycle preparatory to the succeeding stitch-forming o eration of a series of stitch-forming. cycles or producing a suc- -specti ve views of the auxiliary clamp order that ashell-like scallopfwith convex upper side shall be invariably'.forn1'ed b the action of the pusher in conjunction Wit the stitch-forming devices the throat-plate and presser-foot are formed with slightly inclined cssion or group of stitches which the'nia-- chine is designed to repeat in fixed order. In

adjacent faces to present the edge of the work with a corresponding inclinationtothGEOPr crative end of the pusher, which reciprocates in a transverse channel formed in the throatportion to receive the edgeof the work and S plate and is formedwith a notch 'in its. lower prevent its upward -deflection by engagement of the pusher. The invention will be understood by refer: ence to the annexed drawings, in which Figure 1 is a plan of a sewing machine embodying the present iin rovement, with the horiaontal the work-p ate removed to ex ose the parts beneath, and Fig. 2 is a side e evationpf the same, showing the stitch-forming meizhanism. Fig. 3 is a front end view of the machine with the .bracketarm omitted and the parts below the same represented in their respective positions. are detail views representing the auxiliary clamping device and its actuating mechanism, 4 and 5 beingdetail views, taken from the side opposiW-ihat represented in ortionof t e bracket arm'and Figs. 4 to 9 inclusive,

taken at right ang s tothe preceding figures of certain of the parts represented therein, and Figs..-7 S and 9 being, respectively ,per-

member, the endwise movable shaft. and crank-arm carrving the same and provided with the pusher, and the tilting member for Fig. 10 is a partial pign.

theclamping jaws. vicw'of the machine with a pairof tuc guides, and representing thework underthe inggo stitching and scalloping operation. Fig. 11 is a detail plan view ofthe pusher and auxiliary clamp with their acutatin mechanism,

Fig. 12 is a plan of the throat-p ate,and Fig,

13 a perspective view and Fig. 14 a bottomview of the presser-foot. Fig. 15 is-a-partial transverse sectional view of the throatpl ate and presser-foot in their operative relae tions.

The sewing machine to which the resent improvement is shown applied is of t e wellknown" Singer single .'chain stitch type,

with base 1 from which rises the usual bracket-arm 2 which is in practice provided with the needle bar 3 carrying the eyepointed needle 4 which cooperates with the rotary loo er 5 carried by the forward end of the main s aft 6 rovided at its rearward end with the grooved wheel 8.

The presser-bar 9 mounted, as usual, in the head of the bracket-arm 2 carries the presserfoot 102 normally pressed upon the throatlate 11, set into the usual work-plate 1.1, tor holding the material intermediate the feeding actions, and cooperating during the latter with the feed-dog 12 carried by the feedbar 13 pivoted at 1 1 to the feed-rocker 15 and at,;16 with the feed-liftiin bar 17 pivotally connected at its forward end with the depending portion of an eccentric strap 18 embracing the usual lifting eccentric upon the main shaft 6 and at its opposite end tulcrumed by means of a pin 19 upon the up er end of the upright link 19 whose lower en is pivoted to t e adjacent end of a lever 20 fulcrumed at '21 upon the fixed bearing block 22 and haw ing at its opposite end a pin or roller-stud 23 entering eem-groove 24 in the rotary cam 25 to be laterdescrihed. I The feed-rocker 15 is mounted uponthe centerscrews 26 and provided with the usual depending crank-arm 27 towIJich :"s pivoted one end of ran-actuating lever '28 p.-ou'ided with a yoke 29 intermediate its ends embracing the usual feed-actuatingeccentric upon the main shaft-6, and havin its ppposite end provided with a lateral stud entering a guidmg groove in the head of the feedqegulatingl'ever' 30 pivoted upon the machine frame by a suitable fulcrum screw and provided with a finger iece 32 for shifting the same to vary the inc ination of its iding groove for correspondingly varyingte effective action of the feed-actuating camupon the feed-rockerI 5, in a manner well-known.

The feed --rocker actuating mechanism above described is that of the well-known Singer No. 24 chain-stitch machine in which the general form and arrangement of the actuating bar is similar to that of the United States patent to Diehl No. 339,624, dated .April 13, 1886, with the controlling link 18 of such patent replaced by a pivoted member having a controlling slide-way for the adjacent .end of the actuatingdiar, such as that represented in the patentto Dichl No. 388,345, dated Aug. 2], 1868.

The pusher 33 consists of a rigid finger having a vertical slot. 34 in its forward or operative end to embrace the needle path and the transverse notch 35 in the lower edge at such 0nd to receive tho edge of the material which it operates upon, the rearward end of the pusher being secured to a bracketpiece 36 extending upwardly from the end of a lateral arm 37 mounted upon one end belt-wheel 7 and balancethat the member 25 makes one rotation to.

each the of the main shaft. As shown in the drawings, the work-plate 11 is provided with a housing lli'scrving as a guard for the rotating cam-member 25. The camwheel 25 is provided upon the side opposite the grooved hub referred to with a tubular hub' 44 mounted in the forked bearing 450i the machine frame and provided with a fixed-collar 46 intermediate the spaced portions of the supporting bearing to hold the same from endwise movement. The reciprocatingrod 38 is fitted to the bore of and sup ported by the cam-wheel 25 and is prevented from rotation therewith by means-of a steady- 3 pin 47 carried by the angular a rm 39 and entering a horizontal slot 48 in a standard49 attached to the bed-plate.-

The. auxiliary work-clamp comprises a shank-portion 50 having at its forward end the spaced parallel clampingxjaws 51 and at its rear end the perforated ears 52 embracing a perforated central lug 53 upon a tilting block 54 ivotally mounted by means of a common in 0mm screw 55 upon the fixed bearing bracket,'56 secured upon the ma chine frame. The .tilting block 54 is provided upon its forward end with an uprightstud 57 passing through an aperture in the upper clamp-member 50 between which and a collar 58 upon said stud is interposed a spring 59 whereby the bottom of the shank 50 is maintained normally seated u on the corresponding end of the block 54. The rearward end of the block 54 is held yieldingly downward to maintain the jaws 51 elevated above the-throat-plate b means of a spring 60 surrounding a fixe pin 61 projecting u wardly from the foot of the caring brac et 56 through a suitable aperture 62 in the block 54, such spring bein interposed between the top of the latter an an a( justable collar 63 uppn the pin 61.

The tilting block-54 carries at its rearward end a screw pin 64 whose lower 0 erative cnd projects downwardly beneath t ie same and into the path of movement of a transverse cam-face 65 formed upon the outer end of a lever 66 pivotally in'ounted at the opposite end by means of a stud-screw 67 upon the arm 37 attached to the reciprocating rod 38 and movable side-wise therewith.

The arm 37 is provided intermediate its ends with a transverse hole entered by the outer end portion of a fixed guide-pin 68 projecting from the machine frame, and of such length that when the arm 37 is shiftedlatertransverse needle slot 71 extending from its ries the pusher 33 which is necessarily held ates is controlled by its resting uponlthe pin allyand carries with it the lever 66, the transverse notch 69 therein is caused to embrace the outer end portion of the pin 68 which thus temporarily forms a support for I the lever 66, which is initially raised into elevated operative position by engagement of its outer end portionfhaving the oam-facc 65 j with the upper side of the eccentric strap 18 in opposition to a spring 70 interposed be tween the same and the bracket-piece 36 l carrying the pusher 33,. l

The arm 37 is necessarily fixed rigidly upon its reciprocating supporting-rod 38, as it caragainst vertical movement in the performance of its function, while the lever 66 has a pivotal connection with said rigid arm in order to riseand fall with the feed-lifting eccentric strap fromwhich it derives its operative l movements, although its period of operative relation with the work-clamp which it actu- 68 from which it is disengagedonly b the retractive movement ofthe rod 38 and supporting-arm 37 carried thereby:

The Presser-foot 10 is provi ed with along inner edge slightly beyond. the needle-path and sufficiently wide to receive the pusher 33 in performing its normal functio1i,' and with similarslots" 72 upon opposite sides thereof to receive-the spaced jaws 51 of the aurl'liary clamp 50,;whic latter is provided with a finger' 74 projecting slightly above the presserfoot and ada ted .to engage the same when it is lifted for introduction or removal of the inner end of the needle-slot 71 to provide a clearance for the fabric when puckered under work to cause the clamp to be similarly raised in 'oppositionto' the spring- .59 for a similar purpose, The sole portion ofthe foot is provided with a recess 73 around the the foot by the advancement of the pusher.

The upper face of the throat-plate 11 has a slightly raised portion at the left provided with the usual feed-dog slots 75, and such elevated polifiontcrminates at the inner side (on the nght'in' Fig. 12) and in the directionnf the bracketarm 2, in a slight bevel disposed arallei' with the feed-slots and merging lhwer portion which is or may be flush l with the work plat-e 1-1 in a usual or well I known manner.

76, having its bottom at the same level as the hole 77.arrange d crosswise thereofand in line i with the shorter feed-dog slot 75 in order to I provide clearance to permit of the easy setting of the stitches. The pusher-clearance groove 76 is provided to insure that the bot tom of the pusher shall be maintained below the lower face of the material, resting upon the raised portion of the throat-plate 11, l

work, thus obiu'ating any interference in the actions of the work-advancing and edge-indenting members of the machine, and insuring the proper engagement and control of the edge of the material by the notched operative end of the usher 33.

While t e present improvement is obviously adapted for other classes of work than that upon the folded edgesof material to be stitched, it is represented in Fig. 10 of the accompanying drawings as provided-with a tuc ng guide comprising a base-plate 78ad 'justably secured upon the work-plate by means ofscrews 79 and provided withga guiding edge '80 for the edge of the fold to be scalloped'and with a tuck gagmg blade 81 secured adjustably thereon by means of a clamp-screw 82 passing through a suitable- The fabric slot 83 inthe shank of the same.

a, is shown folded over the thin plate 84 which Y is or may constitute the hingfig tuckipg blade of a well-known form of tuc g device. The base-plate 78 of the tucking attachment is further represented as provided with a cordguiding eye 85 through which a cord 6 is led to a point adjacent the finger 86 of the tucking blade 84, tobe pressed against such edge by the pusher and be und thereto by the overedge stitches c at the bases of, the scallops.

The operation of the machine is asfollow's: The material having been folded over the tucking blade 84- and inserted under the aging blade 81 and in contact withthe gui ing edge 80 of the base plate 78 whilethe presserwork and the machine 'setinmotion. During the first four reciprocations of the needle 4, and corresponding rotations of the hook 5, the feed-dog 12 ma cation, the rod 38 is shifted forwardly under the action of the cam 41 upon the roller-stud 40 carried by the angular arm 39, the initial portion of which movement shifts the arm 37 forward carrying with it the pusher 33 and cam-lever 66, the inclined portion of whose cam-face comes in contact with the point of the screw-pin {54 of the tilting block 54, thereesits usual feeding and lift-- rocking it and, consequentlythe clamp-lever 50 upon the"common fulcrum-pin 55 and causing the jaws 51 to clamp the fabric firmly, though yieldingly, upon the elevated portion of the throat-plate 11', while the pusher 33 continues to advance and thereby indent the edge of the material intermediate the jaws 51 to crowd the same inwardly beyondthe needle-hole 77 and into the clearance recess 73 of the presser foot, thereby permitting the needle to clear the edge of the goods in its succeeding descent. Meanwhile, the rock-lever has been tilted by the entrance of its stud 23 into the portion of the cam-groove 24 nearest the center of rotation to lower the fulcrum 19* of the feed-lifting bar 17, by which; the working position of the feed-dog is suificiently lowered to prevent its engagement, even at its then highest position, .with the under side of the work. and

. the feed-do is'thus robbed-of its normal feeding actiori. While the initial lifting movement of thelever 66 was produced by 'means of the feed-liftingcam embraced by the eccentric strap 18, such lever 66 would havebeen permitted to'drop immediately under the continued rotation of, the eccentric were it not that'the lateral movement of such lever with its carrying member .37caused the top of its transversegroove 69 to come into engagement with the sustaining pin 68 by which its elevation is maintained while in up erative position to insure the continued action of the clamping 'aws 51 until the retraction -of the rod- 38 un er the action of the cam 25 causes the disengagement of the cam-lever from its supportln r pin. As represented in the drawings, the feedcontrollmg cam-groove 24'is so timed in the cycle of operation of the machine that the feeding action is interrupted just prior to i the action of the pusher in the production of the first overedge stitch, by which such stitch J's-caused to be laid from the preceding needle puncture directly over the indented edge of the material at a right angle to the line 0 the revious stitches, While the resumption of ceding immediately after the formation of such initial overedge stitch causes the succeeding overedge stitch to be laid diagonally in respect of. -the first. depth-stitch needle puncture of the succeeding series of straightahead stitches; It is, however, evident that by suitable changes of the cam-grooves and disposition of their operative portions, all the overedgestitches may be made at right angles to the straight ahead stitches and at any suit able equalor unequal intervals, while the omission of the" feed-interrupting device or the employement of a uniformly-acting feeding mechanism of well-known type would cause the production of diagonally-laid overed e stitches onlv.

'hile the tuckiru attachment is herein represented as provu ed with means for guiding a cord along the scalloped edge of the fold, it is evider t that the mere omission of the cord will enable the machine to produce an rial clamped between the same, v :ehy the action of the push'en-upon th .ntren e edge of the material tends to bow the adjacent portion of the material upwardly and give the edge a concave shape and highly ornamental appearance, especiaily as the relative directrons in which. the margin of the material extends and movement of the pusher are such as to insure the uniform action of the character described.

From the foregoing description it will be observed that the principal or characteristic features of the'present improvement are the special clamping device for the material upon to opposite sides of the pusher, and designe o crate during the action of the latter upon t e work, and the feed interrupting device for the production of overedge binding stitches at a right angle to the line of strai lit-ahead .75 a like incllnatlon of the margin 0; :he matestitches, and that their specific em odiment may be modified to a considerable extent without departure from the present invention.

' Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, whatl claim herein' is,

v 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge'of the work undergoing the stitching o eration, a work-clamp adapted to engage t 1e .work adjacent said pusher, and means act-mg during the production of one stitch for,

effecting the engagement of the work bysaid pusher and work-clamp but inacti ie during the production of a succeeding stitch.

2. In a sewin machine, the combination with the stitchormiug mechanism, feeding mechanism and actuating means therefor ino )erative during a complete stitch-forming cycle .in the production-of a succession of stitches, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work undergoing the stitching operation, a work-clamp adapted to engage the work adjacent said pusher, and means for actuating said pusher and workclamp to engage the work during theperiod of inaction of the feeding mechanism.

3. In a sewin machine, the cmnbination with the stitchorming mechanism, feeding mechanism and actuating means therefor inoperative during a con-mints stitch-forming cycle in the producil uz of a succession of sP-in P $it n-; y a

' machine, the combination stitches, of a pusher'movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to en age {the edge: bf the work undergoing the stitc 'ng QEGIB/OIOQ, a work clamp adaptedto engage -5. t feworlr adjacent said pushernneans for actuatlng'said pusher and work-clamp, to engage the work during the period of inaction of the fieedlng mechanism, and means connected L w th the feeding mechanism-whereby the Icfpusher and work-clamp are disengaged'from 'thihw'ork after operative engagement there- 4Q In a se 'ng machine, the combination with the sti-tc -forming mechanism and feednag-mechanism comprising a reciprocating feed-bar and a lifting bar connected there with and provided lwlth means for lowering the working position of said feed-bar during a complete stitch-forming cycle and main- 2o taining the same raised in operative osition g cyc e,- of a pusher movable transversel -*o f feed and adapted to engage theedge of the =workundergoing the stitching operation, a work-clam .adaptedto engage the work adin a succeeding stitch-formic? 11 jacentsai pusher, andmeans for actuating 1 said pusher and'work-clamp for engagement of the iwork: duri the stitch-forming cycle .1 1n whrch-thefeed: ar-is lowered from works .-5. ,In'ase 'with the stitch=fcrmingband feeding mechano f arpusher'mova le transversely of the direct on ofijeed andfa'dapted to 'engagethe edge-jot theiwork' adjacent thatportion undergoingv the;1-:stitching operation! a work- -clamP 'dfipfifld to engage the w'orl r adjacent said pusher, and means active during a stitchiorming cycle .and inactiveduring a plurality 49 of subsequentcomp'lete stitch-forming cycles production of asuccession of stitches gn' actuating said pusher and work-clamp to enga%5the work. 1 a 6.- na sewing'machine, the combination withthe stitch-f0 isms, of a'rpusher move le transversely of the ,direction offeed and adapted to engage'the edge. of the workadjacent-that portion'undergoing the stitching ope ratioin, a work- 5 clamp' adapted toengage the work adjacent said usher, meansfore ecting andmaintain ing't e operative englage'ment ofsaid pusher fend work-clamp 'wit 1 the work for a completes'titch-forming cycle or cycles and rendering'and maintaining the same inoperative for a succeeding stitch-forming cycle in the production of. a vsuccession 'of' stitches, and control means for the feeding-mechan- .ism where y its actionupon the work is interrupted for the stitch-forming cycle or cycles while the pusher and work-clamp are in operative engagement withthe work.

'-7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formmg mechanism and feeding mechanism comprising a reciprocating feedthe directionand feeding mechanbar and a lifting bar mounted'upon a movable fulcrum at one endand provided attheother end with means for raising'and lower the same and having, intermediate its ends a pivotal connection with said feed-bar, 7.0 of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the' edge of thework adjacent that portion undergoing the stitching operation, an internnttingly-actin work-clamp mounted mdee 7 5 pendently 0 "said pusher but adapted to engage the work ad acent thereto, means for alternately moving said pusher and work Iclamp respectively intoand out of operative engagement wlth the workjn the production 8o of successive stitches, and means for lowering the fulcrum of the feed-lifting lever to change the working position of the feeding member while the pusher and workc lamp are in engagement with the work. 8 5

8. In a sewing machine, the combination fwith stitch-forming mechanism and feeding mechanism comprising a're'ciprocating feed-f bar and aliftinghar pivotally connected intermediate its ends with said feed-bar, a ro- 9o- -tary mainshaft from which the o erative movements of the stitch-forming an feedin mechanisms are derived, a rotary cam-whee geared to andnadapted to rotate at a slower speed than said main shaft, and a shift lever 'pivotally mounted upon a fixed-bearing in termediate its ends and carrying at one end a fulcrum for said'liiting bar and engaging at the other end said.cam-wheel,'of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed 'roo and adapted to engage the ed e-of the work r adjacent that portion underg mg the 'stitching operation, an intermittin ly-acting workclamp mounted independent y of said usher but adapted toengage the worka jacent thereto, and-means for alternately moving said pusher and work-clamp respectively into and out' of operative engagement with the work .in the production of' successive stitches while the fulcrum-carrying end of said shift lever is in its-lowered position under the action of said 'cam-wheel."'-= I 9. Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitchin -forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pus er movabletransversely of the r15' direction of feed'and adapted to engage the edge of thework adjacent that port-ion un .dergoin the stitching operation, actuating means r alternately moving said pusher respectively'into and out'of operative;-en- 20 gagement with the work in theproduction' of successive stitches, an intermittently-actin work-clamp mounted independently of sai pusher but adapted to engage the work ad- 1acent thereto, actuating means for said I 5 work-clamp, and means acting in conjunction therewith for controlling the duration of the operative relation of said work-clamp with the work.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination 3 with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, and means for actuating the same, of a push'er movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted 'to engage the edge of the work adjacent that port on undergoing the stitchv ing operation, actuating means for alternately moving said pusher respectively into and out of o erative-engagement with the Work in'the pro notion of successive stitches, an intermittentl -actingwork.-clamp mounted independent? gage .the work adjacent thereto, actuating means for said wdrk -clamp-deriving its movements from the feed-actuating means, and means actin in conjunction therewith for controlling t e duration of the operative relation of said work-clamp with the work.

11. In a-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, and means for actuating the same, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoing the-stitching operation, actuating means for moving said. pusher inta operative engagement with .the work during 7 e stitch-forming cycle and out of such opera 've enga' ement fora succeeding sti h forrii ing cyc e, a. work clamp adapted tdgengage; the work; adjacent said pusher, actuating means including 8.pOS1-' tively mtving element for producing an ini tial clampin action of said work-clamp, and a holding evice operative in conjunction with the actuating means for the workclamp but independent of said positively moving element wherebythe engagement of the workclamp with the work may be maintained af ter its initial-actuation.

tial clamping action of said work-clamp, and.

including a member carried by and mdvalile in respect of the-pusher-actuating means for controlling the duration oithe operative relation of said work-clamp and-its actuating means, and a holding device independent of the work-clamp actuating means and acting upon said member whereby the engagement the latter with the work may be maintained after its initial actuation, and subseqliliently interrupted upon the retraction of t e pusher-actuating means operating to carry said member out of engagement with 6 said holding device.

y of sald pusher but adapted to en- 13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, and means for actuating the same, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work of'a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of thework adjacent that portion un-.

dergoin the stitching operation, an inter mit ti ngl -actin' work-clampinglever mounted independent y of. said pusher but adapted to en age the work adjacent thereto, means for a ternately-moving said pusher respectively into and out of operative engagement with the work in'the production of successive stitches, actuating means-for movi clajnipin lever into fen agenient witi the work su stantially simu taneously with the pusher, and a yielding connection between I said clamping-lever and its actuatin means.

15. Ina sewing machine,'the combination with stiteh-formi'n and feeding mechanisms, of a pusher mova le transversely of the direction, of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoin the stitching operation, an intermittingf -acting' work-clamping lever adaptcd to engage the work adjacent said pusher, a

fixed bearing block carrying a fulcrumin u on'gwhich said clamping lever is mounter a ti ting block also mounted upon said fulcrum? pin, a1 yielding connection between said tiltin block and said clamping lever, and means a apted to engage said tiltin block for moving the clamping lever yiel ingly upon the work while said pusher is iii-engagement therewith. a

16. In a sewing machine, thecombinatio'n vwith stitch-formin and feedin mechanisms, a throat-plate and a presseroot provided with a lurality of transverse slots'extending inwardF' from one edge thereof, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and ada ted to enter one of said transverse slots in t 1e presser-footto engage theedge of the work adjacent that portion undergoing the stitching operation, an 'intermittingl acting work-clamp mounted independenty of said pusher and provided with a work-engaging jaws adapted to enter traus-- verse slots in said presser-foot upon opposite sides of the pusher for engag'gpient with the Work and with'a projecting gcr extending above said resser-foot, actuating'means foralternately moving said pusher and workclarnp respectively into and out of operative engagement with the work in the production of successive stitches, and a yielding connectron between said work-clamp and its actuating means.

17. In a'sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms,

ofa pusher movable; transverselyiof the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portionun dergoing the stitchingoperation, actuating means for alternately. moving said pusher 'res spectlveli into and out of operative en agement wit the work inthe production 0 successive stitches, and means whereby the, action of the feeding mechanism may be inter-' rupted throughout a complete stitch-forming cycle during the en' a ementfof said usher with thework. 18-. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch'eforining and feeding mechanisms,

of a; pusher movable transversely of the direction'offeed' and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent-that portion undergo' the. stitching operation, actuating- Jneans or alternately moving said pusher respectively into and out of operative engagement with the work in the production of .successive stitches, .and means connected with the pusher actuating means whereby the action of the feeding mechanism may be interrupted throughout-a complete stitchundergoing the stitching I pusher with the wor forming cycle duringgthe engagement of. said 19. Inase machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism compri t tivelyinto ,and out of operative engagement with the work in the production of successive stitches, a throat-plate provided with a needle aperture and a transverse pusherclearance channel extending across the same to receive the lower edge of said usher, and a presser-foot for holding the wor upon said thrb'atlate. i

20. n a sewing machine, the combination with Stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reci rocating needle and complemental stitchorming devices, and feeding mech anism, of apushe-r movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoing the stitching o eration, means for alternately moving sai pusher respectively into and out of operative engagement with the work in the production of succes sive stitchespa throat-plate provided with a needle aperture and a transverse pusherclcarance channel extending across the same to receive the lower edge' of said pusher, and

a resser-foot having a transverse needleslot with clearance recess in its lower lace around the inner end of said slot and adjacent the needle-path.

21. In a sewing nrachine, the combination with stitch-form1ng mechanism comprising a reci rocat'ing needle and oomplemental stitchrming devices, and feeding mechanism, of'a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoing the stitching operation, meansfor alternately moving said pusher respectively into and out of operative engagement wit the work in the production of successive stitches, a throat-plate provided with a needle aperture, and with an elevated portion embracing the same and a laterally-dc resseg portion cpnnected therewith by a evele portion and having a ..transverse pusher needle-hole, and a presser-foot for holding the work-upon said throat-plate and having its lower or operative face shaped to fit the top of'saidthroat-plate.

22. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism comprisingi i a reel rocatmg needle and complement stitchorming devices, and feedin mcchan-' clearance channel extending across said ism, of a pusher havin a nose which is forked.

to embrace said needle and undercut in the work-engaging extremity, said pusher bein movable transversely of the direction of fee and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoing the stitching operation, means for alternately moving said pusher'respectively into and out of operative engagement with the work in the roduction of successive stitchesfa throat-p ate provided with a needle aperture and a transverse pusher clearance channel extending across the same to receive the lower edge of said pusher, and a resser-foot for he ding the work upon said t oat-plate.

23. In a sewing machine,- the combination with the stitch-forming and feeding mechan' 4 isms, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to engage the edge of the work adjacent that portion undergoin the stitching operation, a tuck-folding blade dis osed in advance of the line of -movement 0 said pusher and adapted t0.

present a folded edge of fabric thereto, cord guiding means for laying a cord along the edge of said fold and in the path of movement of said pusher, and means for alternately moving said pusher respectivelv into and out of o erative engagement wit said folded edge e is-brie in the production of successive stitches.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pusher movable transversely of the (llIGC- tion of feed and adapted to engage the edge thevdirection of feed and adapted to en age the edgeof the ,work. undergoing/the stitc ing;

operation,- means for actuating said pusher for engagement with;,the work, actuating means or ,lmparting an operatlvemovement- '5 POjSBjdfGfldiH member .for each stitch-form- 'mg; -oycle,.an di means whereby the working sitlonl of said'feeding member is automate ically shifted to prevent engagement with 'the work throughout a complete stitch-forming lpycle in which the pusher engages the wor 26. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a feeding member, of a pusher movable transversely of the direction of feed and adapted to en age the edge of the work undergoing the stitching operatlon, a work-clampadapted to engage the work adjacent said pusher, means for periodically actuating said pusher and workclamp for engagement with the work, actu-' ating means for imparting an o erative movement to said feeding member or each stitch forming cycle, and means whereby the work- 40 ing position of-said feeding member is automatically shifted to prevent engagement with the work throughout'a complete stitchforming cycle in which the pusher and work:

clamp engage thework.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my 'name' to this specification, in the presence-of twosubscribingwitnesses.

- ALBERT.H.;DE..VOE,. Witnesses: A v V 1HE nr-J..M-LLI4ER, HENRY A -KORNEMANN. 

